Vita ex machina

Live of mechanics in St. Louis/ Senegal

Over 60 years after France declared independence for its first colony south of the Sahara, Senegal, a heavy atmosphere prevails politically and in terms of transportation. In the cities, road traffic displays its dominance. Despite fines, private cars, especially the fleet of classic black and yellow taxis, continue to rule. It quickly becomes apparent that hybrid or electric cars are a rarity. Here, diesel and gasoline reign.
Traveling in taxis illustrates the end station of our retired models from the past decades. The blocked door handle, often tied with a makeshift wire, is mostly opened by the driver. The window is often manipulable due to a broken, improvised, and broken again window crank. The gear lever is functionally wrapped, and the odometer reads 999,999 km, unless the orchestra of warning lights is playing. The black smoke from partially non-matching replaced engines reminds us of the early climate campaigns.
These retired models continue to circulate near the border with the Sahel region, some of them introduced through the Dakar Rally, which led to a ban on importing vehicles over 8 years old in 2019. Vehicles older than 5 years are subject to an additional tax.
In the ecosystem of declared "dead" vehicles, garage owners bring most of these vehicles back to life from "Pièces détachées" (spare parts). The demand for their service seems inexhaustible, so teenagers as young as 14 start their apprenticeships as mechanics. Despite facing several setbacks due to economic crises, the COVID-19 pandemic, and more recently, inflation resulting from the Ukraine conflict and the resulting job shortage, this provides a relatively secure source of employment.
Skillful hands skillfully disassemble electronic and mechanical components, even breaking down entire trucks. Amidst sparks and hot oil, the hands of the mechanics showcase their journey, albeit through trial and error. The goal is not just to pass a vehicle inspection but to bring life back into the machine, even if it involves clanging metal and black smoke.
This reportage provides insight into the former capital of Senegal, St. Louis/Ndar.